Boot or shoe



(No Model.) v L. VANALYSTINE.

BOOT 0R SHOE@ No. 425,353-n Patnted Apr. 8 1890,

witnesses y UNITED STATES.

lPATENT rrlcn.

LYNUS VANALSTINE, OF ROCHESTER, NEV YORK.

Boo-r 0R SHOE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No.' 425,353, dated April8, 1890. Application iiled November 14, 1889. Serial No. 830,305. (Nomodel.)

To all whom, it may cozwcrn:

Be it known that I, LYNUs VANALSTINE, of Rochester, in the county ofMonroe and State of New York, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes; and I do herebydeclare the following to be a full, clear, and exact de-r scription ofthe same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming apart of this specification, and to the letters of reference markedthereon.

Hereto'fore in the manufacture of lined shoes and boots it has been thecustom to simultaneously last the upper and lining and coniine theiredges upon the insole preparatory to the application of the outer sole.Sometimes the upper and lining are confined together at or near theiredges prior to `lasting, and in others Ithey are left free, but aresimultaneously grasped and drawn around the last by the same lastingdevices, and are secured together to the insole either by pegs, tacks,stitches, or glue. Owing partially to the fact that the lining and upperare composed of materials having different degrees of elasticity and oneoverlies the other, it is practically impossible to simultaneously drawthem around the last and produce an exact tit-that is to say, so as topreserve the proper proportions and disposition of the lining and upperand prevent either from wrinkling when the shoe or boot is removed fromthe last or placed upon the foot. Another source of failure is thecircumstance that the lining` is entirely covered and concealed fromview during the lasting process, and as, owing to its shape andcomposition, it not only does not have the same elasticity as theupper,but requires stretching on-lines somewhat different from those inwhich the upper requires the most tension, it frequently happens thatwhen upper and lining are lasted simultaneously wrinkles are formed inthe lining, or the latter is placed under excessive tension, or, thelinin g being too loose in certa-in parts or offering too littleresistance in one direction and too much in another, the lining or upperis ruptured, or the latter is placed under too much tension and itselasticity destroyed or permanently impaired. To overcome these andother detects in the manufacture of shoes and boots,

and to produce such articles with the lining properly tted andproportioned to the upper, so as to obviate the formation of wrinklesand produce a perfect-iitting shoe or hoot, is the main object of mypresent invention, which consists, primarily, in the new and improvedmethod or process hereinafter described, and the novel features pointedout in the claims.

In the aocompanyin g drawings, illustrating in part the practicalapplication of my improvements, Figure l is aview in perspectiveillustrating the iirst step in the process, and Fig. 2. a similar view.showing the result of the second step. Fig. 3 is a View illustrating themanner of forming a boX-toe shoe.

Similar letters of reference in the several 'figures indicate the sameparts.

Referring to the drawings, A designates the upper; B, the lining; C, theinsole, and D the outer sole. (Shown partially broken awayin Fig. 2.)

In carrying out my invention, which is more particularly designed forthe manufacture of ladies and childrens shoes, the upper and lining areproperly formed and associated together as usual, but without attachmentat or near the edges to be applied to the sole.

The insole G' is secured and held in position upon the last in any otthe usual modes, and the shoe-body, composed of upper and lining, isplaced upon the last with the heel-stiffener in position. The shoe-is'now ready for lasting; but instead of grasping and drawing both theupper and lining, as is usual, the lining Valone is tirst drawn smoothand secured upon the face of the insole, preferably by means of suitableglue or cement. In performing this operation the lining is irst drawnlengthwise of the last-that is to say, at the heel and toe-to give theproper set and draw it into position, after which the lining is drawnsnugly around and over the sides of the insole, and the entire margin ofthe lining is fastened securely by cement to the surface of the insole.

Vhile locating the position of and lasting the lining, the upper may beturned back, as indicated in Fig. l, to expose the surface of thelining, so that the latter can expeditiously and with certainty be drawnsmooth upon the last and all wrinkles avoided.

IOO

In lasting the lining it should be drawn upward and forward or towardthe toe rather than at right angles to the insole, thereby insuring aneven tension all around the last. The overlapping edge of the lining,having been cemented to the surface of the insole, is held in positionuntil the cement has set sufficiently to retain it iirmly in position,the lower margin of the lieel-stiffener or counter is pressed down intoplace upon the lining and insole, and if a box-toe shoe is to be formedthe box is applied either by attaching a stiffening-piece properlyshaped, or by applying a stiffening composition tothe toeI portion ofthe lining. The shoe is now in condition for lasting the upper, whichoperation is performed by drawing the upper tightly and evenly over andaround the smooth even surface of the lining, the latter beingmaintainedundertension and in placeby the attachment of its edges to theinsole, hence offering no obstruction to, but rather facilitating, theoperation. As the upper is lasted it is sevcured by cement or otherwiseupon the folded edge of the lining and held in place until the cementhardens, after which the outer sole is applied and preferably cementedto the insole, when it is ready for sewing in the usual manner.

As hereinbefore stated, one of the chief advantages of my presentimproved method is lthe celerity and exactness with which the upper andlining can be fitted to each other during or by the lasting process,thereby obviating almost entirely the wrinkling of the lining or upperwhen the shoe is worn, as the two members are independently fitted tothe last and separately secured in place upon the insole.

I am aware that it has heretofore been proposed to manufacture rubberboots and shoes by first fitting a lining of fabric or leather over alast, securing the edges to the insole, and applying rubber solution tothe entire surface of the lining, after which sheet-rubber is cementedupon the entire surface of the lining, as `described in Patent No. 503,dated December ,7, 1837; but my invention differs therefrom in severalessential particulars, among which may be mentioned the preliminaryfitting and attachment of the lining to the upper, leavingthe lowerportion and edges free, after which the combined upper and lining isfitted and placed in position upon the last and the lining lasted andcemented at its edges to the insole. The upper is now separately lastedover and upon the previously-lasted lining to produce a close fitbetween them and give shape to the shoe, and the edges only of the upperare secured to the insole above the lining, leaving the lining and upperunattached between the sole and the points of attachment along the upperportion of the shoe.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new is l. Thehereinbefore-described improvement in the art or method of manufacturingshoes and boots, the same consisting in first fitting the lining andupper togetherand attaching them along the upper portion, then lastingthe lining and securing it by the edges to the insole, and subsequentlylasting the upperover and around the lining while the latter is'heldtaut and smooth upon the last by its attachment to the insole, and,finally, securing the edges of the upper in place upon the lining andinsole, 'as and for the purpose set forth.

2. The hereinbefore-described improvement in the art or method ofmanufacturing boots and shoes, the same comprising the following steps:first, lasting the lining upon the insole,with the upper loose anduncontined at the lower edge, by drawing the front portion upward andforward around the last and securing the margin to the face of theinsole; second, applying the toe-stiffener `to the insole and lining;third, lasting the upper by drawing it over and around the stretchedlining while still on the last and cementing the edges or margin of theupper upon the insole; fourth, applying the outer sole and securing itin position, and, finally, stitching or otherwise securing the insoleand outer sole together by fastenings penetrating the upper and liningbetween the inner and outer soles, substantially as and for the purposespeci fied.

- LYN US VANALSTINE. fitnessesz CHARLES L. KIRK, FRED F. CHURCH.

